RAJAT-BORDERS 2025
DIARY FROM A DOCUMENTARY THEATRE PROJECT
INTRODUCTION
What comes to mind when you hear the word “border”?
Borders can be found in our surroundings, on maps, in people’s conversations and minds. A border is a statement, an opinion, safety, violence, opportunities, adventures, return, permits, prohibitions, regulations, laws. Borders can be very precise, vague, or blurry.
Borders – Rajat is a documentary project that explores what national borders mean to people. Borders separate us from other countries and give us a national identity. We feel that we are citizens of our own country. Open borders or closed? Borders evoke strong emotions and are a highly sensitive topic. Politics are played at and around borders, but who are the individuals living at those borders?
Nature does not recognize the national borders set by humans.
That’s why, in environmental protection, management, and utilization, there should be cross-border cooperation. Could this same thinking be applied to people at the borders?
In this project, I aim to shed light on the rich and varied development of border regions across Europe. Areas traditionally seen as remote are now being viewed as bridges that connect nations and people.
I want to highlight that, while border areas share common features and challenges, their development varies greatly across different parts of Europe. I will focus particularly on the external borders of the European Union, where disparities in living standards are significant, such as between Spain and Morocco, Romania and Moldova, Poland and Ukraine, as well as Finland and Russia.
The Borders – Rajat project not only offers perspectives on the diverse realities of Europe’s border regions but also aims to evoke emotions in the viewer through personal stories, an emphasis on authenticity, and moments that inspire empathy. The project uses a variety of documentary methods, including interviews, observational filming, letter writing, and art projects along the journey.
I will rent a camper van for three months in the summer of 2025. The main travel destinations are three: the border between Spain and Morocco, the border between Romania and Moldova, and the border between Poland and Belarus. I also hope to travel to the Finnish-Russian border after these destinations. My aim is to uncover at least a few different perspectives and stories from the gates of Europe.
The project is supported by the Mobility Fund of the Finnish Cultural Foundation, the Samuel Huber Art Foundation and the Arts Promotion Centre Finland.
JUNE
BORDER 1 : CALAIS-DOVER
On my way to the Spanish–Moroccan border, I stopped in northern France, where one of the EU’s most significant borders is located.
The refugee situation in the English Channel, particularly on the Calais–Dover route, has become a major humanitarian and political issue in recent years.
Many refugees and migrants—especially from the Middle East and Africa—have gathered in northern France, particularly around Calais, hoping to reach the UK. Their goal is often to seek asylum or find better living conditions. Crossings are attempted using small rubber boats (dinghies). The distance is short (as little as 34 km at its narrowest), but the journey is extremely dangerous. The weather conditions are challenging, the boats are overloaded, and fuel is often insufficient. Another way to attempt crossing is by hiding in trucks or other vehicles near the Eurotunnel. To prevent this, tall fences have been built around the tunnel and ferry port areas.
I cycle around the coastal area, looking for signs of all this. The coastline is lined with high double fences. When I come across the first camp—people waiting in tents for their next step—I feel an overwhelming sense of shame. I don’t want to just waltz in and start talking, as if I’m feeding off other people’s despair. It’s very hard for me to comprehend all this. I look out at the freezing, windy sea and think about those who risk their lives for the hope of a better future. It’s clear that people don’t make such life-altering decisions on a whim: leaving everything behind, paying enormous sums for a deadly journey, without even a guarantee that things will be better on the other side. That hope for something better is such a powerful driving force—nothing can stop it.
People have the right to seek asylum, so in that sense the crossing itself is not illegal. But the Dublin Regulation, which allows asylum applications to be submitted only in the first EU country a person enters, pushes people into illegality. An asylum seeker can be deported back to the first country they entered. Since the UK left the EU, the Dublin Regulation no longer applies there—making the dangerous Channel crossing more attractive.
Europe is like a fortress, strictly guarded.
It’s also shocking to think that the EU has the deadliest borders in the world. I find that shameful. How can nations that consider themselves civilized close their eyes to this? On my way here to northern France, I drove through multiple borders: Finland–Sweden, Sweden–Denmark, Denmark–Germany, Germany–Netherlands, Netherlands–Belgium, Belgium–France. Crossing for me is easy.
“Willkommen in Deutschland! Auf Wiedersehen! Bienvenue en France! Welkom in Nederland! Sista stoppet före Danmark!”
The EU flag stars flash before my eyes. Every time I cross a border, it feels somewhat grand, almost like a ceremonial, symphonic moment. And at the same time, it’s so easy for me—no questions asked, just drive into the next country. It’s completely absurd that, for example, the Netherlands, under its new right-wing government, is now starting to talk about closing borders. Are we really going to start building fences between European countries now?
Some nationalist Dutch groups have even organized and started illegal private patrols conducting border checks—just like Finland had the “Soldiers of Odin” group back in 2015. This kind of behavior really makes me despair at people’s ignorance.
While driving, I listen to Taina Tervonen’s audiobook “We Are Not From Here.” It discusses a fishing boat that sank off the coast of Libya in April 2015, killing 800 people. Four years later, this boat was exhibited at the Venice Biennale. The piece was called Barca Nostra, Our Boat.
Tervonen also wrote a full article about this in the magazine APU. The article describes how people take selfies in front of the piece.
I continue driving, and Krista Putkonen-Örn reads from the audiobook:
“These people lived through hell before their death, simply because they wanted a better life. This morning, a film shoot is taking place in front of the wreck. An Italian man in a suit and tie speaks to two cameras: ‘This is not a work of contemporary art. This is a grave.’ Clap. ‘Did that go well?’ the man asks the director. ‘Pretty well,’ replies the director, ‘but it would be even better if you paused slightly between the sentences, the message would come across more strongly.’ ‘Alright, take two.’ Clap. ‘This is not a work of contemporary art.’ Silence. ‘This is a grave.’ ‘Perfect, that was better,’ says the director. A middle-aged couple, looking in love, takes a kiss-selfie in front of the wreck, checks if it turned out well, and sits down for coffee on the terrace.”
I scream alone in the car: “What the fuck, seriously?”
I’ve always hated how people photograph everything in art exhibitions, but this is something even more grotesque. I want to go shake that couple—maybe yell that exact phrase in their face: “What the fuck, seriously?”
What are people capturing when they photograph that piece? What moment is that picture meant to preserve? I’m completely shaken.
Border stories in the news bring news fatigue.
That’s very common when the world feels so full of everything else. People disappear without a trace during these crossings, amid complete indifference. This must be addressed. And responsibility must also be taken when one chooses not to address it—that too is a decision.
Finland’s border policy violates human rights.
The “pushback” method—literally pushing people back—violates international human rights agreements, which guarantee the right to seek asylum. Emphasis on the word human.
The entire term “instrumentalized migration” forgets that we are talking about people, who—just like the rest of us—are hoping for a better and safer life.
“The eastern border remains closed: The threat is still considered likely, according to Finnish authorities. On Wednesday, the government renewed its decision to keep eastern border crossing points closed. The decision is in effect until further notice. – The decision centralizes the process of applying for international protection. – The government justifies the closure with a security threat.” (Helsingin Sanomat 16.4.)
I feel ashamed.
This is also the reason why I wanted to create this project.
In Denmark, I stayed in the small village of Haderslev, where the campground owner—an older man—reminded me of someone from a British claymation series, Wallace and Gromit. For him, the world’s borders are the fences surrounding his little campsite. His glimpse into the “big” world is the guests who stay on his property. That’s it.
I wonder how he feels about immigration? Why is nothing ever enough for me? I constantly push my own boundaries. I’m sometimes envious of how easily satisfied some people seem to be. Or does it only seem that way?
While cycling through southern Denmark, I think—there is so much space here, so many fields. Why couldn’t a few more people live here? I see the same thing in the Netherlands, Germany, and Sweden. Where does our fear and hostility toward immigration come from? Petteri Orpo talks about “security threats.” Then I look at a photo of 15 people on bicycles at the Finnish border. A security threat?

Yes, I know—people often explain it with fear, envy, terrorism, etc. But for me, that’s not a satisfying explanation.
Why is it illegal for some people to pursue a better life—and a given right for others? Why can someone like me, a Finn, even think I have the right to decide what someone else should hope for in life?
CENTRAL FRANCE: INTERVIEW WITH TAINA TERVONEN – 16 JUNE
After listening to Taina Tervonen’s book We Are Not Here, I was deeply moved and decided to contact her. I knew she lived in France. She responded immediately and invited me to visit her in the countryside of Central France, where I later interviewed her. In this piece, I’ll share insights from that interview. The photos are observations and various forms of documentation along the way.
Taina Tervonen is a Finnish-French journalist, documentary director, author, and translator. She specializes in migration and has received awards for her work both as a writer and a documentarian. Tervonen lived in Namibia and Senegal until the age of 15.
When a person stands out from the crowd physically—even before they’ve said a word—it’s about the gaze. The gaze carries with it power, history, and attitudes. Taina lived with her parents in Senegal until she was fifteen and experienced this phenomenon firsthand. In Finland, she attended high school and felt like an outsider, even though her appearance no longer set her apart. After high school, Taina moved to France.
“I came to France for the same reasons as many Senegalese: to study, to build a life. But a Finnish passport opens doors that others can’t even knock on. I was never questioned, never suspected of forged documents. Even though a visa was still required then, it was just an administrative formality. My place of birth and Finnish passport were privileges,” says Taina.
Today, EU membership makes movement even easier. For EU citizens, borders are not barriers, just minor bureaucratic stops. At the same time, people from outside Europe risk their lives in rubber boats—because they have no other choice. We ask, “Why do they leave?” or “Don’t they understand the risks?” The truth is, they don’t have options. They can’t get a visa. When legal routes are closed, the choices are a forged visa or a deadly sea crossing. Illegal travel is not only dangerous but also many times more expensive than legal entry.
Life forces people to leave. There are as many reasons as there are people: war, poverty, domestic violence, hopelessness. The desire for a better life—for oneself and one’s family—is universal. For these same reasons, Finns once left for Sweden or America.
When a European goes abroad to study, work, or seek adventure, it’s seen as bravery and enrichment. When an African comes to Europe for the same reasons, we ask if their reason is “good enough.” This isn’t accidental—it’s the legacy of colonial history. We place ourselves at the center and push others to the margins. We hold the power to decide whose reasons for leaving are acceptable. That power is tied to human dignity. Europeans often unconsciously believe we are more valuable and have the right to decide who gets to come close and who doesn’t.
Movement is not a right—it is a privilege. This is often forgotten. When we consider our own mobility, we see it as a given. But we’ve done nothing to earn being born to Finnish parents or holding a Finnish passport. Mobility has always been part of human nature. Cultures, science, art, and conquests—all come from movement. In today’s world, however, the ability to move is unevenly distributed: for some, it’s easy; for others, nearly impossible. A European crosses a border with a passport—an African needs a visa that will likely never be granted.
The problem is not only structural, but human: the difficulty of encounter. Prejudices, fears, and misinterpretations prevent us from seeing others as people. From recognizing their human dignity. Integration is often spoken of as a technical process, but in reality, it’s about power: who gets to be visible and in what way. Often, people are expected to become invisible.
Border Politics and the Erosion of Human Dignity
In the past twenty years, border policy has tightened significantly. Frontex, the EU border control agency, has become the Union’s largest agency. At the same time, legislation has changed: human rights are being subordinated to border security. Pushback practices have become commonplace—people are forcibly returned without the chance to apply for asylum. Finland has been at the forefront of such legislative changes.
This is no longer about paperwork. This is about life and death. What does a pushback mean in practice? At worst, it means people who land on Greek islands are put back into rescue boats, taken to Turkish waters, and left there. It’s a moral question: can we look another person in the eye and say their human dignity is worth less than ours? That question shouldn’t even need to be asked.
Beaches and Borders – Two Realities Side by Side
In the Canary Islands, Greece, Sicily—the same beaches where tourists enjoy their holidays—rescued rubber boat passengers and drowned hope wash ashore. One flew directly, the other paid with their life.
These parallel realities force us to ask: how can they exist in the same time and place? Why is one person’s journey tourism and another’s a tragedy? Borders are controlled so that one reality is hidden from the other. It’s an active political decision. At border crossings, these two worlds coexist. Keeping them apart is a constant effort. Camps are relocated, people are pushed aside—so tourists don’t have to face the truth. It might make them feel bad. And maybe it should.
Ultimately, it’s about encounter: how do we meet another human being? Encountering is difficult, but necessary. It involves fear, shame, and prejudice—and that makes it meaningful. This kind of encounter can’t be manufactured by social media or AI. There’s a kind of magic to it. Only a human can truly meet another human. It takes courage to step out of your bubble, to be uncertain and imperfect for a moment.
We don’t have the right to decide what’s a “valid” reason to leave or the “correct” way to integrate. We do have the responsibility to look at ourselves and see what our privilege has hidden from view. Our task is to listen, to learn, and to walk alongside. To meet. Because human dignity knows no borders.
Spontaneity diminishes when people don’t meet. Not everything can be scripted for social media. Meeting others is complex. Facing another person is scary, exciting, and it requires vulnerability. A bit like this interview: I had to cross a certain threshold of discomfort, awkwardness, or self-criticism.
Next, I’ll be interviewing Manuel, a sea rescuer with whom I share no common language. Once again, I must cross a boundary. What to call it? A comfort boundary? I’m in unfamiliar territory and have to put myself out there. Of course, I’m not comparing this in any way to life-threatening border crossings—but to the challenge of human encounter.
Why do I do this work? Taina loves stories—that’s her personal driving force. Her other hope is to bring people closer to those stories, so that their understanding of the world may grow. I fully share this goal with her.
What all has happened before us? What is this present world built upon? How can we trace the marks of history? What stories have been told—and how are they being told now?
The world is vast, and there are countless stories and perspectives that deserve to be understood. As a storyteller, you can guide the reader to these narratives. And hopefully, that inspires the desire to meet another human being—with dignity. The interview was incredibly rewarding, and I enjoyed the beautiful idyll of the French countryside and Taina’s hospitality. These days stayed in my heart and were the highlight of my journey so far.










PEOPLE “EXPERIENCING” ART IN PARIS





ON MY WAY TO SOUTH SPAIN 17.6.-
I’m driving towards Almería and an interview with a sea rescuer. The highways are full of trucks. Slogans on the trucks flash before my eyes: “There’s more to Prime. A truckload more.” Goods are moving, and no one really cares where they come from. We’ll order just about anything, from anywhere, as long as it’s cheap. As long as the people who often make those goods for us stay outside the borders of the EU.

I take a break in Torrevieja, where I meet a friend for coffee. She tells me that on Spain’s sunny coasts, there are many immigrants from Africa. They often sell handicrafts or tourist trinkets on the streets. At least in Torrevieja, a new law has just come into effect that criminalizes buying these kinds of items—you can be fined for it. These African street vendors are treated like the lowest tier of society. They are stripped of their dignity, and people don’t even want to talk to them.
Tens of thousands of tourists come to the beach areas every year. They sip drinks under sun umbrellas and are clearly welcomed here—they are, after all, the backbone of the local economy. Yet on these same beaches, both bodies and people wash ashore—those who’ve tried to cross in flimsy fishing boats or rubber dinghies. They are not wanted.

As I continue towards Almería, breathtaking and rugged landscapes open up around me. During long drives, I often find myself thinking about how Europe is full of these empty spaces. Why do we say there’s no room? Couldn’t we come up with a different solution? I know—it’s a naïve thought. Or is it?
As I approach Almería, I suddenly find myself surrounded by endless fields covered in white plastic. These massive white areas can be seen on Google Maps—they are known as the Plastic Sea. Immigrants are welcomed here—to work. Usually off the books, without official contracts. They are paid miserably and have virtually no rights. But of course, no European would agree to do this kind of work, certainly not for such poor pay. This really isn’t far from modern-day slavery. We haven’t come very far from the mindset of colonial times.
MANUEL CAPA 17.6. (ALMERIA)
I arrive in Almería, where I’ve arranged an interview with sea rescuer Manuel Capa. We don’t share a common language, so the interview is conducted using Google Translate, gestures, bits of different languages, and drawings. The interview is currently being translated, so I’ll add excerpts from it later. Throughout the conversation, I reflect on how privileged I am to meet such good people. My faith in humanity is restored.
I received permission from Manuel to use the photos he took during rescue missions. I was deeply moved by the image he described of the rescued people cheering with joy when they finally reached Europe, knowing that their agonizing and dangerous journey was finally over. At the same time, it’s heartbreaking to think that the way they are often treated in Europe is utterly appalling—but they don’t yet know that when they are rescued. I learned from him that as the EU has tightened border control in the Mediterranean, the routes are changing. More and more often, especially from West Africa, people are setting out for the Canary Islands. This crossing is extremely dangerous. The Atlantic weather conditions can be unpredictable, and the boats used are often, for example, Senegalese fishing boats, which are not designed for such rough seas—especially when overloaded. People with no maritime experience whatsoever are appointed as the ‘captains’ of these boats. The rescue missions of Manuel and his crew focus precisely on these routes.
The EU’s border control is managed by an organization called Frontex. I’ll write more about them later. From what I’ve gathered from people more knowledgeable than me, the organization’s operations are highly questionable. Its sole purpose is to guard the EU and Schengen borders. Frontex’s budget has grown exponentially: from €143 million in 2015 to €543 million in 2021, and it’s expected to reach €10 billion by 2027. It’s staggering how much money is spent on securing borders. The growth of these figures also says a lot about the political climate Europe has been heading toward for some time now.
During the interview, I was deeply moved by Manuel’s answer to my question: what would he do if he had power and money? “I would open the borders,” he said. He then told me he plans to retire in about five years. He’s not going to buy a sailboat, but perhaps a camper van—and travel wherever he pleases, by land.
PICTURES TAKEN BY MANUEL CAPA

TARIFA
From 3rd to 8th of JULY
I arrive in Tarifa. Tarifa is the southernmost town in Spain and a paradise for surfers and kitesurfers. I am just a stone’s throw (15 km) from Africa. As I walk along the beach and look out to sea, the African continent appears on the horizon. Because of the short distance, many boats from Africa have arrived in Tarifa. Now, however, due to stricter laws and increased border control, this traffic has significantly decreased and shifted more toward the Atlantic and the Canary Islands.
In Tarifa, the cemetery has a separate “section” for those who drowned in the Mediterranean. Most of these graves are unmarked and bear only a numerical code given when the bodies were recovered from the sea.
At the campsite, I watch a YouTube travel video made by a Finnish couple visiting Tarifa. “Tarifa has beautiful but windy beaches. You can enjoy various water sports here. Even the dog enjoys walks along the shore.” Then the camera pans, and one of them says: “Well, what do we have here?”
They kick and examine pieces of a clearly shipwrecked boat found on the beach. From the blue stripes, I recognize that it’s most likely one of those fishing boats used to dangerously and desperately cross the Mediterranean.
“This boat won’t be going on any more trips. And I doubt the insurance will cover the damage – it’s in such a bad shape!”
The couple laughs at their own joke and takes selfies, saluting like they’re the ship’s captains.
I feel sick. This is what “seeing the world” looks like when you don’t actually see anything real. How can someone travel to another country and show no interest in what’s actually happening there?
The conversation among Camping travelers online revolves mainly around how annoying it is when border checks are too thorough – or how those checks cause traffic jams.
Selfies are taken everywhere and of everything.
“Me and the shipwreck.”
Maybe 30 people drowned in that boat. Some of them were children.
I bike along the road leading to the cemetery and think: for many, reaching Europe meant traveling this very road.
It’s incredibly sad that the identities of the drowned remain unknown. There are still countless families who never received confirmation of what happened to their loved ones who set off on that journey. Many likely still hold on to hope — I know I would, as a mother — that as long as there is no confirmed death, there is still a chance that the loved one is alive.
On my way from the campsite to the center of Tarifa, I see a taxi parked outside. I ask the man sitting in it if we can share the ride. The man is Dave Brown, an Englishman. Dave quickly clarifies that he is originally Jamaican. We talk during the taxi ride, and he’s very interested in my project. He himself was traveling to Uganda on a cross-motorbike, but the bike broke down in Morocco, and spare parts are hard to find. His journey might be over, and he may have to return to London. He’s currently on his way to the bus station in Tarifa.
We immediately connect, and conversation flows naturally. Dave ends up not taking the bus — he wants to hear more about my project over coffee. From the café, we head to the beach and then to a bar — we end up spending the entire day together.
Looking back, it was a rare experience: two strangers spending a whole day together. I learn that Dave considers Uganda his other homeland. He says that in Africa, he feels free from the racist gazes. I find that a powerful thought — that someone could live their whole life, raise a family, and build a career in a country, in this case England, and still feel daily the burden of racism. I don’t have that experience, and I can’t fully understand or imagine it.
In Uganda, Dave has a wife and an adopted child. I also learn that he’s been married in London for over 40 years. We get into a heated debate about polygamy. Dave thinks I have too European a perspective and don’t understand that this arrangement is best for all involved. I’m not bothered by polyamory itself, but I do take issue with the fact that in this case, it means multiple wives but not multiple partners for the wives. It’s an unequal arrangement I can’t accept.
I do understand that for the Ugandan wife, this arrangement may have been financially crucial — it ensured stability for her and her son. Having traveled in Africa, I know what it means to lack economic security in Uganda — often, in a conservative sense, it means having a man to provide.
I notice myself getting agitated in the discussion. The thinking feels wrong, even if I’m looking at it with a European lens. To me, a man coming from a European society can’t just go to another culture and pick and choose the practices that suit him, even if they conflict with the principles of equality. That, to me, feels like neo-colonialism again — like being in a candy store: “I’ll take these customs, but those are too primitive.” In a way, Dave himself had a European gaze. He came from a European culture and chose to adopt polygamy from Uganda, but didn’t accept more brutal practices like beating a wife or children. (Hopefully.)
I believe that human rights and equality are universal values. Ideally, people would be viewed without cultural or historical baggage — completely neutrally. If one wants a polygamous relationship, it should be polygamous for all parties. Isn’t that obvious? Hitting anyone with a stick — woman, child, anyone — is never right. For me, these are fundamental human rights. Whether my view is European or feminist, I stand by it.
That conversation stirred strong emotions on both sides. We didn’t reach a mutual understanding, but it didn’t get in the way of our friendship.
We also met a Dutch man at the campsite who had lived most of his life in southern Spain. When I mentioned a place in the Netherlands, he suddenly said: “The Netherlands isn’t what it used to be. It’s slowly turning into an Islamist state.” I was so surprised I didn’t say anything — and later regretted it. The fact that he himself had moved from his home country to another didn’t make him any more understanding toward immigrants. This was a clear example of how Europeans see their own mobility as a right — and themselves as superior. They don’t see that people outside Europe might have the same need to move.
I was frustrated I didn’t speak up then. Bringing it up later would have been difficult. The next day, I was headed to Ceuta — a small Spanish territory on the African side. The border situations there have been extremely violent for years.
Dave and I shared another taxi ride to Algeciras, and from there I took a ferry to Ceuta. My plan was to meet Antonio Sempere, a Spanish photographer and journalist who has long worked with migration-related issues.
I never saw Dave again after that shared taxi ride. I tried to find him on Facebook, but there were thousands of people with his name.
Still, I’m certain that somehow, someday, we will meet again.

CEUTA
I travel by ferry from Algeciras to Ceuta. The trip takes about an hour. Border control is significantly stricter on both sides of the strait, even though I’m not crossing the EU’s external border at this point, since Ceuta still belongs to Spain. However, the ongoing border tensions between Morocco and Spain have led to closer scrutiny of ferry traffic.
I have an arranged meeting with photographer and journalist Antonio Sempere. He meets me at the port with his car. We first head to a nearby café to talk. Antonio tells me about his work, which has focused on border issues and immigration for many years. He is originally from Ceuta, so it’s no surprise that the topic is deeply personal to him. Ceuta is a special place — constantly under pressure, with the border defining its life at all times. There have always been border crossings, but the situation escalated particularly around 2015, when the number of refugees increased drastically.
According to Antonio, a massive surveillance system has been built at the border, with infrared cameras, security cameras, and identification systems. The fence itself is the most imposing border fence I’ve ever seen. It snakes across land and through mountains. The mountainous terrain on both sides makes border crossing extremely difficult.
Antonio and I drive through all the border crossing points in a small car. The first is the so-called official border station, from which we are quickly chased away within minutes. I manage to snap one hurried photo. We move a bit further to observe. At this spot, the border extends into the sea. We see a couple of people on the beach on the Moroccan side. Antonio suspects they might soon try to swim across. Often, Moroccan guards stop them before they reach Spanish territory — a guard swims out, catches them, and returns them. No one lingers on the beach for fun. Border control is extremely effective.
The May 2021 Crisis
In May 2021, the situation escalated. Morocco used migration as a weapon against Spain. Around 8,000 people — many of them minors — crossed the border in a short time. Antonio says that Morocco essentially “opened the border” in an unusual move, prompting a strong reaction from Spain — soldiers and police were sent to guard the border and forcibly return people.
What caused special concern was the large number of minors. The whole situation stemmed from a diplomatic crisis between Spain and Morocco. Spain had taken in the leader of the Polisario Front, Brahim Ghali, for medical treatment. He had arrived from Algeria with forged documents. Morocco saw this as support for its enemy and responded by opening the border — clearly interpreted as blackmail.
The events of May 2021 in Ceuta are a clear example of how migration can be used as a foreign policy tool. They also revealed how fragile and complex the relationship between the EU and its neighboring countries — especially Morocco — truly is, particularly in the context of the Western Sahara conflict. Antonio has many photos from those days on his Instagram. I later receive some of them for my own use. Judging by the images, the situation looked completely chaotic.
Shelter for Minors and SAMU
Next, we drive to a warehouse area that houses a holding center for minors. Here, services are provided by SAMU (Servicio de Asistencia Médica de Urgencia), a Spanish organization specializing in emergency medical care and humanitarian crises. It was actively operating in Ceuta in May 2021 when thousands of migrants — including hundreds of unaccompanied minors — arrived from Morocco.
The minors essentially wait here until they reach adulthood. They hope and believe that once they turn 18, they can apply for a residence permit in Spain. We stop to talk to a young man who dreams of Barcelona. He’ll soon turn 18. Sadly, in reality, most are returned to Morocco once they come of age. Antonio tells me this with sadness. I keep thinking of an image of a fishing boat where everyone is cheering because they’ve reached safety — and yet the reality is that Europe uses “push-back” procedures, and everything starts over. In 2021, an estimated 1,500 unaccompanied minors arrived in Ceuta.
We roam around the warehouse area. We see several young people lingering — they have nothing to do but wait. We drive up a hill, from where we can see the entire border line. The fence is an overwhelming sight. Near the fence, on the Moroccan side, we spot people — possibly after a failed crossing attempt. Antonio says that massive amounts of money have been invested in surveillance and technology.
I begin to think about questions of prioritization. The EU invests heavily in border control, but that doesn’t cover what should be done for the people who actually cross the border. The problem of migration isn’t solved — it’s merely watched. What if more resources were used for action that respects human rights? Frontex is one of the most well-funded EU agencies, but according to Antonio and Manuel, all it does is guard the borders. This is clearly a political question of will.
Conclusion
We visit one more border point, where you can see a mountain range that’s said to resemble a sleeping woman. On the beach again, there are people — possibly planning to cross. Antonio says that attempts to cross happen daily, though nothing as chaotic as 2021 has occurred since.

Antonio drives me back to the ferry. We say goodbye. Border inspection is strict. I flash my Finnish passport, but I see how especially people of color are stopped, questioned, and directed into separate rooms. From the ferry window, I see how every truck is thoroughly inspected.
Meeting Antonio was again a significant experience. I feel a deep, inexplicable connection to these people. Gratitude for having the chance to meet them — good people who share the same confusion and painful sense of injustice with me. In the midst of it all, I feel small and insignificant. How could I address this topic in a way that makes the feeling visible? How could I share this experience so that it sparks discussion, stops people — even for a moment?
It baffles me how the attitudes of us — who see ourselves as civilized — can be so fundamentally distorted. Migration is used as a tool, a pawn in geopolitical power play. Coercion, power, political maneuvers. But none of it changes the fundamental truth: behind the borders stands a human being. Someone with a mother and a father. Perhaps a girlfriend, wife, children. Someone with dreams, hopes, and expectations — just like all of us. As the ship glides through the Mediterranean, I see cargo ships — we want the goods, but not the people. I keep wondering how this could be turned into a stage.


VENTIMIGLIA
From 11th to 15th of JULY
I’m traveling a long distance with a two-stop strategy from southern Spain to northern Italy. My destination is the famous border town of Ventimiglia, located on the border between France and Italy. Along the way, I stop for one night in Murcia and spend a couple of nights in Cadaqués, the homeland of Salvador Dalí. The news reports massive wildfires in the Marseille area, so I have to wait for the roads to reopen. The destruction and changes caused by climate change affect us all — borders mean nothing in this context. Countries should cooperate across borders, including on immigration and border policies. Cooperation shouldn’t happen only when forced to.
Eventually, I continue my journey and arrive in the mountainous Ventimiglia.
Ventimiglia is a historic border crossing point. While looking for information about the city, I come across an article in Helsingin Sanomat titled “Italy’s borders opened to France and Austria” (HS, April 2, 1998):
“VENTIMIGLIA – On Wednesday, Italy removed its last border checkpoints with Austria and France, thereby finally joining the passport-free Schengen Area. From now on, one can travel from Italy all the way to the Netherlands without a passport.”
According to the article, the atmosphere at the border was cheerful: a brass band performed, and border guards were trained for new duties.
Now the situation is very different — brass bands no longer play at the border. Around 2015, every train and car was thoroughly inspected. France, invoking the Dublin Regulation, employed a so-called pushback procedure, sending undocumented arrivals back to Italy. Among them were minors, for whom such a procedure is especially questionable and often illegal.
There have been tent camps in Ventimiglia’s tunnels where people have waited for a chance to attempt a border crossing. Many try multiple times — on top of trains, through tunnels, or even across the mountains. The latter route is known as the “route of death”: the extremely dangerous mountain crossing has caused numerous injuries and deaths. Yet many still try again and again.
Currently, the situation is almost invisible. The tent camps have been dismantled, and people have scattered — hiding wherever they can.
When I arrive at the campsite, the atmosphere at the entrance is strange. I learn that a four-year-old boy went missing during a grocery trip. He is described as slightly autistic, which makes communication difficult. The town descends into chaos within a few days: the boy is searched for with helicopters, police cars patrol the streets calling his name, locals and tourists form search parties, and dogs comb the surrounding areas.
The situation is shocking. The boy simply isn’t found. Suspicions of abduction or an accident grow. Helicopters buzz overhead from morning till evening. Finally, over 48 hours after the disappearance, a relieving announcement comes: the boy has been found in a nearby forest and is in relatively good condition. The entire town breathes a sigh of relief.
I hear that minors attempting to cross the mountain routes often get injured or even die. I can’t help but think how differently we react when a European child goes missing compared to the countless minors who vanish while trying to reach Europe. We know that countless people, including children, have drowned in the Mediterranean. Similarly, crossing the Sahara has claimed many lives — many of whom we never even hear about.
As I look at the mountains in Ventimiglia, I can see the dangerous route with my own eyes — the one many attempt under the cover of darkness. Sudden drops, one wrong step, and it could be fatal. But no one sends helicopters or search parties for these children. How can we so completely turn a blind eye to what’s happening right in front of us?
Near the border, a group of teenagers lingers. It looks like they are either trying to cross the border or have just been turned back. They came from a tunnel that leads to the border checkpoint. I think of my own children at that age. They too often hung out in similar groups — but they never had to consider life-threatening routes or sacrifice their precious youth in the hope of a better future.
Tomorrow I’m going to visit Monaco. From the border in Ventimiglia, I can already see the coastline and the tall buildings of Monte Carlo in the distance.


MONACO
MONTE CARLO
On the train from Ventimiglia to Monaco, I sit with two Finnish tourists. They are returning to Nice after visiting Italy, “since it was so close anyway.”
First observation: Italy is messier. No politics or history—just a cleanliness report.
I think about how easily we switch countries as if changing shirts, and how we judge the surroundings based on cleaning frequency. There’s no need to think about safety or our right to be here. No, what matters more is how often the streets are washed.
Monaco starts right from the train station: shiny, expensive, perfect. Everything looks as if someone vacuumed and wiped every surface with a damp cloth the second before I arrived.
On the beach, people fall into two camps: those with money, showing off everything money can buy, and the crowd who came to gawk at the wealthy. The budget-store types pose in front of luxury yachts and post the pictures on social media with a witty caption: “My new ride, smiley smiley.”
The boats grow like egos: the bigger the boat, the bigger the satellite dome on the roof. The fenders are the size of double mattresses. I take photos too. Of course—I’m budget-store type.
I see a woman whose five suitcases are being wheeled behind her onto a boat. I wonder if one is reserved solely for makeup. The thought makes me laugh.
On one yacht, one worker polishes the railing while another watches. The sight is such a perfect cliché that I suspect I might be the screenwriter myself. Here it is. This environment, this lifestyle, must of course be protected from immigrants—can’t give up a single fender.
I hop on a Hop On, Hop Off bus to see the city. No one looks out of the bus—everyone is photographing themselves. I’m fascinated by people’s self-absorption and by the horror of it all.

Then two nasal-voiced American women sit behind me. They have come to Monaco “to experience Europe.” They talk the entire time. First I listen, then I record—because this is too good to lose:
Dialogue, NO Bleach!
-It’s worst, Yeah it is worst I think. When it is short and not taken care off, but still I wonna do it properly this time.
(pause)
-Like light but anyway not too wild.
-Like let it be?
-Yeah totally.
(Thinking pause)
-That’s what I gonna do.
-Cool
– Im actually very exited about this.
-I have finally found some peace with this thing.
-I have put so much money and effort to my hair and actually now I think if I just first let it be for a while it could do the trick.
– Maybe you need a new stylis?
-Maybe.
(thinking pause)
-Or definitely yes. Because the previous one always suggested the bleach, but now I really don’t want to do the bleach anymore.
-Not at all?
– No
– Not even stripes?
– No not even stripes can you imagine?
-I know it sounds weird and I am also surprised of myself with this new idea but at the same time so excited. I’m still young. I can try things, right?
– The worst is short brown hair but this is something else.
(thinking pause)
-I will take one step at a time. Calmly. With no stress and panic.
(Longer thinking pause)
-(Determined) For now no bleeche. It is now decided.
– And even then it can happen that, some day I want it again but for now I give up for the bleach totally for now.
– Okey also no more thickening and no more treatments.
– That is a big decission!
– Yes it is. I know. But I’m excited about it. Finally something new is happening.
– The point is that my lashes are darker than my hair. That is also why it is necessary.
(Thinking pause)
-(Deep sigh)I have wanted this for a while and now it is finally my time.
(touching her hair and looking it from the small powder mirrow)
-And even now It has been like this the longest what it has ever been and there has been way too much salt water and sun. So I might need some refreshing care first.
-But no bleach!
-NO BLEACH! (laughting together)
That dialogue made everything clear. It distilled the horror of this place and its people. I hurry to the train station – away from here, hopefully never to return. In that moment, I knew the script I wanted to write: a performance about the European gaze, the sense of entitlement that drives us to guard our borders ever more fiercely. How skillfully we close our eyes to the horrors at our frontiers, while posting concerned updates on social media, attaching a photo of ourselves looking sad – and in doing so, washing our hands of responsibility and human rights. This was the first clear conversation tied to the performance, one that will likely make it to the stage.

HUNGARY-SERBIA
My next destination is the border between Hungary and Serbia. On the Serbian side lies the city of Subotica. I have contact information for someone who helps people crossing the border into Serbia — he provides them with food, clothes, and other emergency aid.
The problem, however, is that because of the rental agreement’s insurance terms, I can’t drive my rented van outside the EU. So I decide to go to a small Hungarian village called Röszke, right next to the border, and from there cycle to meet my contact.
I drive from Croatia towards Hungary. The journey is quite long, and I’m already rather tired of driving when I suddenly notice that a border is ahead. I assume it’s the Croatia–Hungary border. I’m surprised when I get stopped.
“Passport!” someone shouts from the booth. I try to show my passport through the window, but the officer is already agitated and gestures aggressively for me to get out of the car. I step out and show my passport.
“Where are you going?” he asks, still angrily.
“To the camping place in Hungary,” I mumble.
“This is Serbia border!” he shouts. “Do you want to go to Serbia?”
I’m confused that the GPS routed me through Serbia to get to Hungary. I don’t dare start arguing, so I just answer: “Yes.” The officer then asks about my car, whether I’m alone, and wants to see my cat’s passport.
“Only one cat?” he asks. I try to lighten the mood by saying “so far,” but immediately realize this might not have been the best time for a middle-aged woman’s attempt at humor. The officer lets me continue.
I drive across a bridge and arrive at the Serbian checkpoint. Once again, I’m asked to get out of the car, and a large-framed Serbian man wants to see the cargo area. I tell him again there’s a cat inside. When I open the door, the guard softens and strokes my small cat with his huge hands. Usually, my cat doesn’t like being petted, but perhaps even she realized this was no time to be picky. The inspection is quick, and I continue my journey — now outside the EU.
You notice it immediately: the roads and buildings are run-down, and there are street vendors selling watermelons, the kind you hardly see in Europe anymore. All around, fields stretch as far as the eye can see. I drive rather quickly through this strip, nervous that without insurance, if my car breaks down here, I’ll be in trouble.
I reach the Hungarian border, and my car, cat, and passport are carefully checked. In a way, it’s funny how this happened. The GPS didn’t understand what was and wasn’t the EU — it just gave the fastest route. And I was too tired to double-check it. This certainly wouldn’t have been so easy without my Finnish passport and Finnish license plate. There were kilometer-long lines of trucks at both borders, being thoroughly inspected.
As I was leaving Hungary, I also saw a family — three adults, including one elderly woman, two kindergarten-aged children, and a baby — who had been ordered out of their car. The entire car and all their bags were being searched from top to bottom. Compared to that, my own inspection felt like child’s play.
So I was at the Hungary–Serbia border in a tiny border village. I couldn’t reach my contact, so I decided to cycle to see the famous and controversial fence that was built during the refugee crisis. At the time, Serbian Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić expressed his surprise and shock at the Hungarian government’s and Viktor Orbán’s plan to build a fence along the Serbian border. He stated that building fences was not the solution. Hungary went ahead regardless, and the first fence was completed in September 2015.
The fence is 4 meters high and 175 kilometers long, designed to prevent illegal entry via Serbia — as Hungary claims 95% of migrants come through there. It was fitted with NATO razor wire, which is sharper than barbed wire and causes severe cuts. Later, the fence was upgraded. The new section, the “smart fence,” includes thermal and motion sensors as well as night-vision cameras. Hungarian prisoners were used in the construction.
The fence is an impressive sight. I walk alongside it for a long time and sit nearby. Birds and butterflies fly over it as if to mock human foolishness. I’m in Röszke on the Hungarian side, wondering what the people who live right next to the fence think — are they happy about the border security or not?
I decide to cycle to another border crossing near the railway tracks. As I approach the fence, a guard comes out of a small booth toward me. I ask if I can take photos. She immediately replies firmly: “No pictures.” I turn back but secretly take a couple of photos from further away. I wonder how the guard spends his day alone in a hot booth by the fence. Maybe she watches Netflix? Nothing happens at this section of the border, and I’ve understood that attempts to cross don’t occur where the guard is stationed.
On my way back, I see fields full of dead sunflowers — stretching as far as the eye can see. The fence and the border arrangements make me feel melancholic, and these dead flowers only intensify that feeling. They look like sad human masses with slumped shoulders. I take photos of them and can’t stop.

DRIELANDENPUNT
My final border destination this summer is not on the EU’s outer frontier, but at the point where the borders of Germany, the Netherlands, and Belgium meet. The corner of three countries. A place that fascinates me precisely because it captures something essential about how we Europeans can relate to borders. This is not a fenced, guarded frontier, but a tourist attraction — a spot where you can stand exactly at the meeting point of the three countries’ borders, their flags fluttering side by side.
I sit a little apart with my camera. I watch people taking turns stepping onto the border point to take photos, laughing and posing, as if, for a moment, they were citizens of several nations at once. What captivates me most are the children, who have invented their own rules for the border: they play as if it were a game of Twister, trying to stand in Germany, stretch a hand into the Netherlands, and still touch Belgium with the tip of a toe, all at the same time. Their joyful shrieks announce their successes.
I think to myself: this is exactly how it should be. Lighthearted, playful — like in the Finnish children’s song “Matkustan ympäri maailmaa” (“I travel around the world”). In it, you learn to greet in different languages and delight in diversity. The message is clear: although we live in different parts of the world, we are not different as people — we only express ourselves in different ways.
Here, borders are a source of humor. It doesn’t matter which country your foot or hand is in at any given moment. Borders are lines we humans have drawn on the landscape. Animals, nature, and children don’t care in the slightest where those lines run. And yet we adults — we Europeans — are willing to sacrifice human lives for them. That is hard to comprehend.
This thought, this history of the European gaze and sense of superiority, is something I want to explore further in my manuscript. But this summer, my journeys to the borders end at this point. Next time, perhaps, will bring me to a very different kind of border — between Finland and Russia. But that will be the story of another journey.












































































